by Patrick Mooney
Lisbon may not have the Algarve’s quantity of golf courses in Portugal, but it certainly matches the quality.
The capital and its surrounding areas have quickly developed in recent times and is catching up big time with its more renowned – and certainly more expensive – big brother down south.
And to the south of one of Europe’s most historic and exciting capital cities, is the Costa Azul – the Blue Coast – set along the Setubal Peninsula. The area has quickly become one of Continental Europe’s favourites by virtue of its ability to offer genuinely top-rated courses at prices everyone can afford.
The region’s climate also offers the chance to play golf all the year round, with the warm autumn and winter temperatures especially appealing to UK and Irish golfers.
The Orizonte-Lisbon Golf Group manage many of the courses in the region, including the three outstanding tracks we played during our whistle-stop tour last month – Quinta do Peru Golf & Country Club, Aroeira 1 and Ribagolfe 1, the latter two being part of 36-hole complexes.
The region itself is majestic and boasts lovely coastal towns such as Sesimbra and Setubal. They don’t have the same extensive accommodation as the Algarve, or perhaps central Lisbon, but there are enough to stay locally in some comfort and style – the four-star Sana Sesimbra Hotel is extremely good value, just yards from the beach. Indeed, many consider this unspoiled stretch of Atlantic-washed coastline to be the ‘real Portugal’.
To the east, the typical Portuguese town of Alcochete sits on the south bank of the Tagus, about 20 minutes from Lisbon, and is a perfect base to explore the two courses at Ribagolfe, as well as Santo Estêvão – the newest of the tracks in the Costa Azul region.
Alternatively, golfers can stay in the centre of Lisbon and drive across two stunning bridges over the Tagus. The 25th April bridge is often compared to the Golden Gate in San Francisco and connects western Lisbon to the Costa Azul, overlooked by one of Lisbon’s Cristo Rei – a 260ft statue of Christ, similar to the one found in Rio de Janeiro.
The Vasco da Gama bridge connects from the east of the city and is a magnificent structure (and Europe’s longest bridge) with a total length of 10.7 miles.
Quinta do Peru Golf and Country Club is a 30-minute drive from Lisbon city and framed by the Arrábida Natural Park. The track is a beautifully-crafted design by Rocky Roquemore and was rated in the top 100 courses in Continental Europe in Golf World magazine’s ranking (2014).
Opened in 1994, the parkland layout meanders gently through verdant pines and provides a demanding 6,640-yard test. It has astute bunkering and true-rolling, quick greens that will offer a good examination of any putting stroke.
There are several stand-out holes and a stellar closing stretch. The spectacular par-three 16th needs a 190-yard carry over water to an undulating green – and a strong nerve.
Practice facilities are first-rate and are a popular draw for visiting golf schools from central and northern Europe. Other facilities include a double-ended 300m practice range, short-game target greens and putting areas. A large clubhouse features a pro shop, restaurant, bar and a sun terrace – indeed Chelsea’s Portuguese manager Jose Mourinho is a clubhouse regular when he’s in the area.
Aroeira I is a deserved new entry into Golf World’s Top 100 list for 2015/16. And the decision to undertake a significant six-figure renovation in 2014 to upgrade the courses has paid instant dividends.
José Maria Cazal Ribeiro, from Orizonte-Lisbon Golf, said: “For Aroeira to have been restored to a position among Europe’s elite courses is wonderful news and vindication for all of the hard work that has been put in by the team over the last 18 months.”
Aroeira is located only 25 kilometres from Lisbon, close to the coastal town of Caparica. It is a unique estate comprising of two golf courses and a host of impressive mansions.
Designed by Frank Pennink (the Old Course, Vilamoura) and opened in 1973, the Aroeira I was dubbed the ‘Wentworth of Lisbon’ in the 1980s – although it has probably more of a feel of Woburn about it. Played through tall avenues of tall pine trees – shades of Surrey and Berkshire’s finest old clubs – and surrounded by wildlife and nature, the par-72 track plays to 6,650 yards and demands accuracy and placement off the tee to hit the greens in regulation.
The course staged the Portuguese Open in 1996 and 1997 and has played host to several Ladies’ European Tour events and the prestigious European Men’s Club Trophy in 2013.
The complex’s sister course, Aroeira II, opened in 2000 and was designed by Donald Steel.
At over 7,000 yards from the stones the track bares its teeth, with water in play on no fewer than nine holes and large, undulating greens testing the putter to the maximum. It has hosted the Ladies European Tour Qualifying School and several Ladies’ Portuguese Opens.
Ribagolfe I has been hailed as the ‘Valderrama of Portugal’ and provides a superb test of golf in a unique cork oak forest setting 40 minutes from Lisbon. It has hosted the first stage of the European Tour Qualifying School since 2009.
Such is the expanse of nature, the Ribagolfe experience means you are in total tranquillity – there are no houses in sight and each hole is sheltered from the view of the others.
Designers Peter Townsend and European Golf Design have created from this beautiful piece of virgin cork oak forest a layout which would grace any European Tour event with superb oversized greens. Narrow landing areas also play with the mind for long and straight hitters, and three of the four par-fives have a risk-and-reward aspect for big hitters seeking the green in two. It plays 7,370 yards from the back tees.
Rirbagolfe II is a shorter test than its sibling, but still measures more than 6,800 yards. It was designed by former Ryder Cup player Michael King in conjunction with European Tour Design.
Blessed with the same indigenous cork oak canvas, King has crafted a more forgiving but equally appealing golf course with wider fairways and landing areas. The huge, moderately contoured greens, however, provide a stiff test.
Lisbon, like Rome, is built on seven hills and has been the Portuguese capital since 1147. It lies on the north bank of the Tagus estuary and is the westernmost city in Continental Europe. The city’s population is about 600,000 and has a strong heritage in seafaring and navigation.
Lisbon also mixes its rich history and culture with a modern day cafe society and spectacular nightlife – the traditional bars and boutiques of the Bairro Alto are certainly worth visiting. And there’s also the football. The city boasts two of the best clubs in Europe – Sporting Lisbon and Benfica. While there we were able to take in a Europa League tie involving Sporting and KF Skenderbeu in the impressive Jose Alvalade Stadium, which saw Sporting win 5-1.
And to that end Orizonte-Lisbon Golf are offering golfers a special ‘Derby and Golf Weekend in Lisbon’ deal in March 2016 for just €365. The package includes three nights’ accommodation at the Sana Capital Hotel, match tickets, two rounds of golf at Quinta do Peru and Aroeira, plus transfers to the courses. For reservations contact: [email protected]
And for the competitive golfer there is the second staging of the Orizonte-Lisbon Golf Trophy in February. The five-night package includes four rounds of golf for €559pp, with rounds at Quinta do Peru, Aroeira I and II and Ribagolfe II. Accommodation is at the four-star Sana Sesimbra Hotel. For full details email [email protected].
Tagged Frank Pennink, Peter Townsend, Portugal Golf, Ribagolfe